Where to stay in Rome

Fronted by a great glass hall and topped by a cantilevered canopy, Rome Termini Station’s modernist vibe blends seamlessly with its classical leanings, and newly arrived visitors will be delighted to discover that they can grab an authentic Italian gelato, espresso, or slice of pizza in the Forum Termini before even leaving the station. Just across the street from the station and next to the Baths of Diocletian is the National Roman Museum, housed in a 19th-century Neo-Renaissance palace. The museum showcases Roman and Greek artifacts that date back to the 2nd century BC, including statuary, paintings, and the Grottarossa Mummy.

The Vatican is a place of pilgrimage for the world’s 1.2 billion Catholics, many of whom come to hear the Pope celebrate mass in the breathtaking St. Peter’s Basilica, a Renaissance gem whose sheer scale is awe-inspiring for any visitor. You can also stroll across the vast St. Peter’s Square, and perhaps even find the single spot where its 2 rows of elegant colonnades appear to be completely aligned. Inside the Vatican Palace itself, each opulently decorated room is more stunning than the next, although nothing tops Michelangelo’s transcendent Sistine Chapel, whose frescoed ceiling is one of the foremost artistic achievements of the Renaissance.

The Spanish Steps consist of 138 steps that wind past flower-decked terraces, the baroque Fontana della Barcaccia, and John Keats’s home-turned-museum. It’s a picturesque place to relax and simply watch the passerby or have your portrait painted by a local artist. Famished visitors can enjoy traditional English fare at Babington’s Tea Room, a favorite amongst artists and politicians. The Steps are also located in one of Rome’s most upscale areas, and Via dei Condotti beckons to those want a taste of Rome’s famous designer fashion houses such as Gucci and Prada.

Rome’s Colosseum is an architectural marvel, a vast concrete-and-sand ellipse with 80 archways on each of its 4 levels. It’s instantly recognizable around the world as a symbol of Ancient Rome’s majesty, as well as its brutality—it was the venue of the infamous gladiatorial matches, where slaves and professional fighters waged bloody battles, often involving fearsome wild animals. Visitors to today’s Colosseum can experience its ambience by treading the restored floors of the main arena or entering the atmospheric subterranean passages down which the contestants once walked to their fate, before posing for a photo with a lifelike gladiator.

Piazza Navona, set west of the Pantheon, features a trio of magnificent fountains, including the famous Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi. Navona was built over the former Stadium of Domitian, which has its origins in 86 AD, and underground tours of the original ruins are available. The surrounding area offers several lounges and nightclubs, and the lively nightlife of Campo De Fiori is a 5-minute walk away. Strolling down the peaceful Via dei Coronari, meanwhile, conjures up visions of a bygone Rome filled with vintage bicycles and sleepy cafes—a great place to shop for antiques and quirky souvenirs.

Trastevere is easily accessible via the Ponte Sisto footbridge, which crosses the Tiber river. The Piazza di Santa Maria lies at the center of Trastevere’s bustling nightlife, and is home to The Basilica of Santa Maria, an ornate frescoed church that’s one of the oldest in the city. Art lovers can check out Raphael’s frescoes at Villa Farnesina, then stroll the narrow streets to the Palazzo Corsini, a baroque palace with works by Caravagio. Trastevere comes alive at night, and the patio at Freni e Frezioni on Via del Politeama is a great place to people-watch over cocktails.

Via Veneto was featured in Fellini’s classic "La Dolce Vita", and became a hub for jetsetters such as Audrey Hepburn and Coco Chanel. For a possible glimpse of modern-day celebrities, tip back a drink at one of the many upscale cafes that pepper the hill. The ancient city of Rome is within easy walking distance, as is the Villa Borghese, Rome’s largest park, which is just up the gently sloping hill and features temples, museums, and a boating lake. Those wishing to see Via Veneto through Fellini’s eyes can visit his recreation of it in the Cinecitta studio.

Completed in 1762, the Trevi Fountain was built to commemorate a source of pure water that sustained the Roman Army in 19 BC. It’s a powerful piece of sculpture, featuring allegorical figures in dramatic postures, and it’s easy to let the minutes slip away on its curved stone seats as you watch the rushing waters. According to legend, throwing a coin into the fountain over your left shoulder using your right hand ensures your return to Rome. By giving into the superstition you’ll be doing a good deed—the fountain raises over 3,000 euros a day, which is donated to local charities.

From Repubblica it’s a 1-minute walk to the imposing Piazza di Repubblica, a busy square built to trace the curve of the Baths of Diocletian. Grab an espresso in one of the piazza’s cafes, or take a seat and marvel at the Fountain of the Naiads, whose reclining bronze nymphs scandalized the public when they were unveiled in 1901. Walk 1 minute east and you’ll see even more of the ruined Baths of Diocletian, which date back to the 3rd century AD. Today they’re part of the Museo Nazionale Romano, and offer a fascinating insight into Ancient Roman life.

The unfinished EUR development was damaged during the war, leading the government to reimagine the area as a business and residential hub, replete with 50s- and 60s-era Neoclassical office buildings set amongst spacious gardens and parks. EUR’s retro-urban planning attracts designers drawn to the Fascist-era architecture of Colesseo Quadrato, and to the Palazzo dei Congressi, a modern interpretation of the Pantheon. Those seeking more leisurely pursuits can sample a gelato by the shores of the artificial lake or tip back an aperitif at Caffe Palombini all’Eur.

Aurelio is peppered with open-air cafes, public squares, and pizzerias. The Vatican is visible from the streets and it’s well connected to transport links, but with its meandering alleys and wide boulevards shadowed by residential blocks, it also has the ambience of a traditional Roman neighborhood. Hikers will appreciate the hills above Aurelio, which provide views of the Vatican’s duomo, and it’s easy to find a respite amongst the greenery in Villa Veschi, a 4.5-hectare park and estate. Urban amblers can head down the via Baldo degli Ubaldi, which offers a variety of independent shops.

San Giovanni has a laid-back vibe that’s evident in its shopping and restaurants. Via Sannio is home to an open-air market where tourists trawl through leather jackets, CDs, and grilled chickens, and there’s a burgeoning slow-food scene. Pompi on Piazza dei Re di Roma offers some of Rome’s best tiramisu. Dating from 324 AD, the Archbasilica of St. John Lateran is San Giovanni’s most notable attraction, and was long one of the most important churches in Christendom. It’s worth a look for devout and secular visitors alike—its golden gilt ceiling and immense mosaics are breathtaking.

Aventine’s most famous attraction is perhaps the big green door at the cypress-shaded Piazza dei Cavalieri di Malta. By pressing your eye to the keyhole, you can look across 3 countries (the Knights of Malta’s autonomous land, Italy, and the Vatican), towards a striking view of St. Peter’s dome. Just down the hill southwest of Aventine is the Testaccio, a traditional neighborhood where visitors can chow down on roast suckling pig at Da Bucatino or pop into old-school Perilli’s, where waiters in bow-ties serve up their renowned coratella, a dish made from lamb hearts and artichokes.

Parioli is nestled between the vast Villa Borghese gardens and Villa Ada. Families can rent tandem bikes and tour Villa Borghese in style, but make sure to book in advance if you plan on visiting the popular gallery. Kids will love the Cinema Dei Piccoli, and the Rome zoo is just up the road. Set amongst Parioli’s turn-of-the-century residences and imposing embassies are some of Rome’s most renowned restaurants. Pop into the high-end Al Ceppo for a romantic dinner of traditional Marche cuisine, or dine al fresco on the patio at Duke’s, a California-inspired eatery and cocktail bar.

Nomentano, despite being set away from Rome’s downtown, can hold its own in terms of cultural offerings. History buffs will enjoy strolling the sprawling Villa Torlonia complex, which includes an 18th-century villa where Mussolini once lived, as well as a public park and museum. The neighborhood is bursting with pizza-by-the-slice shops and traditional trattorias, and the Piazza Bologna is a popular meeting point for locals and those wanting a glimpse of its unique Fascist architecture. Night owls can amble to the nearby San Lorenzo neighborhood, a hip, studenty area renowned for its nightlife.

Gianicolo lies west of the Tiber and just outside the boundaries of ancient Rome so it isn’t one of the city’s famed 7 hills, but this doesn’t stop it being a favorite of locals and tourists alike, who scale its gentle incline for romantic strolls and spectacular views. Architecture lovers will be rewarded for the exertion by the Tempietto del Bramante, a shrine dating from 1502 which is a first-rate example of High Renaissance architecture. And if you’re on Gianicolo at noon, you’ll find the usual laid-back hush interrupted by a cannon shot, which has rung out daily to mark the time since the 19th century.

Olympic Stadium can boat of hosting the 1960 Olympics, the FIFA World Cup, and 4 European Cup finals. Tours aren’t offered, but you can catch a live match here on most Sundays during football season, and reasonably priced tickets can be bought through team stores or lottery centers. Restaurants and bars in the stadium’s complex are sparse, but hungry football fans can take Tram 2 to the Quartiere Flaminio, a laid-back neighborhood just across the Tiber river which offers a handful of restaurants. While there, check out the MAXXI Modern Art Museum, designed by Zaha Hadid.

From Tiburtina EST it’s easy to get to downtown Rome by hopping on a metro train at Pietrelata, which will take you to the Eternal City in around 30 minutes. But there’s plenty to explore in this tranquil outpost, too, from the friendly pizza restaurants along the Via di Pietrelata to the Forte Tiburtina, a military barracks dating back to the 1880s. For more pastoral pleasures, check out the Riserva Naturale della Valle dell'Aniene, a 1600-acre nature reserve which tracks the path of the Aniene river until it joins the Tiber. Look out for wild flowers, crabs, crayfish, and brown trout.

Tiburtina has undergone numerous renovations and extensions since it first opened in 1866, and today it’s one of Italy’s biggest and busiest stations, served by over 400 trains every day. The area around the station is great for shopping at locally owned businesses or picking up a panini washed down with an authentic espresso. Venture west of the station and you’ll find yourself on the edge of hip, up-and-coming San Lorenzo, with its pop-up outdoor bars, burlesque clubs, and colorful street art. A favorite haunt of students at the nearby Sapienza University, the area is rapidly becoming a nightlife hotspot.

Ostia’s a leisure hub in the summer months, and is peppered with blues cafés, discos, and English-style pubs. The beaches fill up early with locals and tourists, and there’s no shortage of sun loungers for hire. It’s a quick bus trip to the more laid-back Castelporziano, which offers tranquil sand dunes and a backdrop of pine trees, and is only open during the summer. Ostia Antica was a major Roman port at the mouth of the Tiber, but was deserted after Rome’s fall in the 5th century. It’s now a vast, beautifully preserved ruin—similar to Pompeii—where visitors can tour the ancient apartment buildings of the dock workers, stroll through the Forum, and check out extravagant frescoes and mosaics.

Adults can grab a cocktail at the Cinecitta café while kids enjoy workshops and movie-themed activities. A 20-minute drive south of the studios, the Cinecitta World amusement park offers fantastical movie-themed rides and shows that your whole family can enjoy.